Preparation time: 20 mins (plus overnight marinade, 2 nights better!)
Cooking time: 20 mins
Summer has landed! Time to dust off those BBQs and get the coals fired up! Normally, shortribs are an economical cut that require low and slow, winter-style TLC to achieve perfection – like these braised and glazed ribs
for example. However this alternative Korean technique will allow you to enjoy them all year round with equally delicious results, and minimal effort. ‘Cross-cut’ means that the shortribs are cut across the bone rather than along. Ask your butcher for the shortribs to be cut as thinly as possible. This is for two reasons. Firstly, it allows the robust Asian marinade to penetrate thoroughly and work its tenderizing magic. Second, it means the ribs can be grilled high and fast over a glowing charcoal BBQ.
2kg native breed ‘cross-cut’ beef shortribs.
250g Brown sugar
250ml soy sauce
1 medium size pear, peeled and finely grated
1 medium white onion, peeled and finely grated
1 bulb of garlic, peeled and finely grated
2 medium red chillies, finely chopped
2 tbsp sesame oil
1tbsp white pepper
½ tbsp black pepper
2 spring onions, finely sliced
1. Begin by evenly coating the shortribs with the brown sugar. Allow to cure for 15 mins while preparing the rest of the marinade. You will notice that some of the natural moisture from within the meat will start to be drawn out. However, not to worry, this will help the marinade to eventually penetrate deep into the meat.
2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Place the shortribs in zip-lock bags, and pour the marinade over. Depending on the size of your zip-lock bags, it may be better to split the ribs and marinade into two. Move the ribs around to mix them well with the marinade. Remove as much air from the bags as possible before sealing well. It is also recommended to double up the bags to insure against any leakage! Finally, as an additional line of defence, place the sealed bags in a baking dish.
3. Place the shortribs in the fridge to marinade, at least overnight. However for best results leave them in for two nights. Flip the bags over say 2 or 3 times in this time, moving the ribs around the marinade each time.
4. About half an hour before you plan to cook, fire up the BBQ – preferably with lump wood charcoal for higher heat and better flavour. Once the fire has died down and the coals are almost white all over and glowing, place the grill rack on. If you can adjust the height of the grill rack, you are looking for about 6 inches between the coals and the grilling surface.
5. Meanwhile remove the shortribs from the marinade and set aside until ready to cook. Transfer the marinade into a saucepan, preferably with a heat resistant or metal handle that can be placed to the side of the grill to warm and gently reduce for about 10 mins.
6. When ready to cook, grill the shortribs for about 10 mins flipping them every couple of minutes to colour evenly. Baste the ribs regularly with the reduced marinade.
7. Once cooked, transfer to a dish and allow to rest for 5 mins. After resting the shortribs can be portioned by slicing in between the rib bones, and further if desired. For a more traditional pairing, they can be served alongside steamed white rice, kimchi and some crisp green lettuce leaves. The reduced marinade can be also used as a dipping sauce. Alternatively, they can simply be served up alongside your favourite BBQ staples
Recipe and photos by Mike Heywood, South London resident, regular customer, pork devotee, home chef and instagrammer extraordinaire. To see more stay tuned to this blog or follow Mike on Instagram @4TELIER
South Devon Beef farmed by Michael Alford, Somerset. Meat cut and dry aged by The Butchery Ltd.
Preparation time: 1 hour (starting the day before)
Cooking time: 6 hours
A classic French-style red wine slow braise takes this economical cut of beef and transforms it into the ultimate comfort food. For best results, this recipe is done in two stages. Firstly, the beef is gently braised alongside its aromatic braising companions before cooling down for an overnight marinade. The following day, the shortribs are removed from their flavoursome bath, which is then reduced down to a sticky, umami
-rich glaze to anoint the ribs with their own concentrated essence. A final blast in the oven caramelises the ribs for added depth of flavour
Serves: 6, plus leftovers
Preparation time: 40mins
Cooking time: 3 hours
It's cold out. You want – need – something warming and comforting. It’s time… for pie. This recipe takes an economical cut, the humble shin of beef, and cooks it slowly to break down the connective fibres and release its gelatinous goodness into a deeply rich, unctuous gravy enriched with bone marrow. London porter is used as the base for the gravy – a dark beer with roasted, smoky and subtly sweet chocolate notes. Served with a punchy green sauce for a contrasting hit of freshness and zing, this dish intends to keep you both warm and comfortable.
The recipe uses suet crust pastry to encase the pie. However, should you wish to save some time and opt for shop bought pastry, an all butter shortcrust will also work well.
Finally this recipe can be used to make one big pie, two medium size pies (as shown in the photos) or individual size pies – depending on what size pie dishes you have. You’ll just need to adjust the number of marrow bones – one per pie is perfect.
Serves: 6, plus leftovers
Preparation time: 20 mins
Cooking time: Up to 5 hrs for low and slow
, or 1 hr 30mins for high and fast
There are few things that beat great British roast beef. Fore rib is the perfect cut for the ultimate roast, and makes a fabulous Christmas centrepiece. This recipe can be done ‘low and slow
’ if you’ve got the time to pop it in the oven and forget about it for a few hours. Alternatively you can do a more traditional ‘high and fast’ in a fraction of the time – either way, you can achieve great results with minimal faff!
A very interesting piece about the new breed of butchers in town from the Food Program on BBC4
It features amongst others our amazing friends Dario and his wife Kim at M.A.D last year. Sheila Dillon always curates a interesting well considered pieces for her show.
For those of you who didn't catch Nathan on Raymond Blanc's new BBC2 series "How to Cook Well" you can see the short of his section above. If you want to see the series, for all the recipes and other great guest spots it is on BBC iplayer
With an Autumn feel in the air even though Summer seems to have only glanced upon us we are pleased to bring a few items some of you have been requesting, English Rose Veal and Native Breed Mutton.
As we only source whole carcasses to butcher in-house the veal has been trickier than we originally thought. We always knew it needed to be English Rose but with the added constrictions of natural rearing, high animal welfare and whole bodies only. Most farmers had not actually previously, which just goes to show, yet again that most of our London meat is no longer butchered traditionally in house. We pretty much had to leave our usual requirement for pure bred native breeds at the door as the dairy industry uses crosses to utilise maximum milk production with temperament and disease resistance.
Our first veal shipment is Holstein Friesians from Roger Mason at Heaves Farm in Cumbria
As always, that ever so sensible man Hugh Fearnely-Whittingstall tells us why we should all be eating English Rose veal
, a by product of the dairy industry with some tasty recipe ideas thrown in to get you in the mood for Saturdays shopping with us down at Spa Terminus. Fern Verrow
have had lovely sage recently, and we heard rumours of spinach, then grab a tasty cured pork product from Ham & Cheese Co
if you are looking to go classic Saltimbocca style.
Heaves Farm website also has some great recipes
We did manage to buy a whole veal animal so the counter will have the liver, tail, tongue and all the cuts and bits in between if you want to get your hands on something more fun than the escalope.
Lamb is eating beautifully right now,
fattened on the summer pastures and allowed to grow at its natural rate the end of Summer start of Autumn is actually our preferred time for lamb, spring lamb we feel tends to be over rated and a little tasteless. Let us know what you think of our latest batch of Llanwenog.
A fine specimen fatted up nicely on a summer meadow diet
And we are buying mutton and hogget in as well from the same farmers, which will be a great chance for people to try the meat side by side or have the option for really flavourful long slow cooks. We recently visited one of our favourite lamb farmers Sue Money-Kyrle based in Gloucestershire. Having loved her LLanwenog lambs
, farming ethos and spirit since we opened, not to mention the feature in Jamie Magazine, it was great to finally see the farm for ourselves and it didn't disappoint.
Running a small herd ( 67 animals over 40 Hectares when we dropped by) with real love Sue selects and drives her animals to abattoir by hand and she had a few set aside for us to get a quick lesson in carcass selection while the beasts are still alive a little different from how we normally see them but very educational end to a tour of Walkers Fram admiring the meadows, views, ohh and the sheep! Over the 12 years Sue and James have been at Walkers Farm they have slowly built up a pure bred herd suited to Sue's exacting standards of the breed and the conditions of their windy mountain top at the northern tip of The Forest of Dean. Lots of planting along fence lines as part of the Farm Stewardship scheme
allows more protection for the animals.
The view arriving back at the farmhouse after our tour
They have also been carefully monitoring the ancient meadows applying minerals to the soil as appropriate to encourage a balance mix of healthy meadow flora meaning the sheep stay naturally healthier in the tough conditions. Some plants help as natural wormers, all help create a balanced diet and impart a depth of flavour to the lamb not found on a single grass or cereal fed system. We nibbled very sweet sorrel and spotted clovers, meadow sweet and lots of stuff I wouldn't be game to mention incase they were identified wrong amongst the grasses.
close up of the meadows, which had just been cut for silage
Great farm, great farmer(ess)! damn fine lamb and mutton. EAT SOME NOW.
As many of you, especially I am guessing the self employed and small business owners would find, business and pleasure are often mingled. But if you weren’t at least a little in love with what you were doing then you would be crazy to be in business doing it !
Which found us on a family “staycation” in Norfolk visiting The Carleton Herd
, a small herd of Red Poll not far from Norwich. Conservation grazed
on river meadows, these beasts tick all our boxes, native breed, lovingly, slowly and naturally reared on non-arable land, fed on mixed pastures, small groups, local abattoir, non intensive, low input and all those other fuzzy words which do add up to what we believe is spectacular tasting, healthy meat with low environmental impact.
Robert one of the owners, two friends and neighbours have paired up to be able to best utilise the boggy areas around the river running through their properties, drove us around in his Ute
to see the farm, the Red Polls are lovely medium sized healthy looking animals which as Robert admiringly points out fit naturally in the flat Norfolk landscape. One of the heifers had calved last night, therefore changing her status to cow, a few calved quite a while back and some are obviously due to be mums very soon. A good-natured breed our 5mth old daughter has her first encounter with a bovine and seems pretty pleased by it. The guys chose to let the heifers mature properly before allowing them to get pregnant so that they need less help with birthing.
We see different areas at different stages of the grazing process a very promising sign as it is a clear indication of the animals being rotated through the paddocks, so the beasts get a great diet, developing depth of flavour in the meat and the flora, fauna and soil have a chance to regenerate. This rotation of animals is a key aspect of conservation grazing and one whole heartedly endorsed by Graham Harvey in his excellent book, Carbon Fields.
Red Poll are a local dual purpose (Milk and beef) breed for those based in East Anglia, previous Red Poll meat we have eaten could be describe as “buttery” and is beautifully succulent and tender. Technically this difference in taste and exceptional succulence comes down to the size of capillaries apparently, though as always, it needs to be well fed and raised animal or all the breeding in the world wont save it.
With bloodlines of a right royal pedigree including beasts from The Queen’s Sandringham Estate
and a prize winning bull we hope you will get a chance to pop in over the next few weeks to try some Carleton Herd Red Poll. As we were lucky enough to get two steers killed on 4th July 2012 they have been aging nicely in The Butchery’s meat locker. With only 25 cattle killed a year they are a rare and tasty treat. Last week we had some very juicy, tender, sweet flavoured steak, this week with a little more age we think the beefiness will start to show depending on the cut you choose. If you’re a regular, a great chance to taste the same beef over a few weeks of aging and also think about the terroir of meat, a lot of our beef currently comes from Dorset, Devon and Herefordshire, how do these East Anglian raised beasts differ ? We talk about it in grapes and wine, is it not just as appropriate for properly raised meat ?
Clarissa Dickinson Wright of Two Fat Ladies fame had this to say about Red Poll beef “An exquisite and unique flavour from mature meat of a very individualistic old breed. Try it! "
What do you think ?
This seems as good a chance as any to introduce you to Compassion In World Farming
an organisation we have been following for quite a while now and especially their latest report
on the advantages, other than taste (we will let you be the judge of that as it is so individual) of eating this type of meat.
People seem to have been enjoying my tweets of the secret butchers cuts so thought I would cover them in more than 140 characters.
So you're a keen cook and looking for something different to cook other than your regular steak or stewing chuck?
There are so many hidden cuts within a whole animal carcass that only a butcher knows about.
Getting in full beef carcasses at The Butchery allows me to break down the whole beast in such a way that I get a larger range of beef cuts than your average butcher or supermarket, both of whom buy in what’s known in the trade as “boxed meat”
Non standard or smaller cuts are tossed into the “trim bin” and usually minced, yes minced and sausages are real meat not all the ears and cartilage and other bits urban myths have decided. My years in butcheries and abattoirs in Australia, the UK and a brief stint in Italy whilst also having time with different chefs and a hell of a lot of my own personal research has opened my eyes to these tasty cuts and how to cook them.
Pope's Eye or Spider
My favourite cut is something with a few fun descriptive names, Pope’s eye in Oz or Spider in the States and Italy due to the network of fine marbling that runs out like a spiders web within the meat
I call it the Pope’s eye as it’s a better definition of it’s location on the beast (essentially the sphincter muscle).
Small, well marbled piece of meat that sits in the aitch bone making up part of the pelvis, it has loads of flavour and I find it as tender as any other more popular cut on the whole animal, fillet I am talking about you! When a carcass is hung for dry aging this cut is very exposed and can sometimes be unusable. Best, flash fried, season well just before throwing on a super hot grill/griddle/pan and cook to your liking as this cut can handle it. Out of a whole animal weighing in around 300kg dead weight you are lucky to get 300grms of this meat.
The tri-tip which you are more likely to have heard about but most people still have no idea where on the cow it comes from.
The tri-tip is an extension of the point end of the rump and is not to be confused with the picanha which is the cap of the rump and connects with the silverside. Instead this muscle runs from the point of the rump and up and over the knee. In the States commonly called the sirloin fillet due to its tenderness. The tri-tip has similar flavours and characteristics to rump, but loads more marbling running through it which helps to keep the meat succulent in cooking. This cut is great for the BBQ or grilling, but as it is thick I find it best charred on the outside then finished in a oven if you like your beef cooked anymore than medium. I often use it in a rare beef salad. Out of a whole carcass you will only get about 1.5 to 2kgs
Bolar muscle whole
A small muscle about the size of a fist, found deep within the shoulder of a beef carcass. It is equivalent to the human bicep and is a ball of delicious, gelatinous goo. Grab this cut for all your slow cooking needs, whole or diced for stews and curries it is hard to beat. Two large tendons on each end that are sticky when cooked but ever so soft. In Asian cooking the tendons by themselves are added to soups and used in warm beef salads. Generally treat the same as a shin cut then when eating appreciate twice the amount of connective tissues that have broken down with slow cooking into a fabulously rich texture. From a whole carcass you get about 1.2kg.
Bolar Muscle cross cut
To be continued.........
Coming to The Butchery Ltd this week is one of the most majestic and ancient of the British rare-breed cattle, White park.
White park have been favoured for their meat for centuries, origin of the “Sir” loin after a King (some say Henry some say James) knighted his meal of White Park loin. And Sir Winston Churchill sending some to Texas in the war to ensure the breed was preserved.
In the late 60’s White Park in the UK had declined to only 60 animals, the Rare Breed Survival Trust
, hard working farmers and breeders have brought this back up to approximately 3500 animals, taking the breed off the critical list. Few people have had the chance to eat real White Park beef over the last 100 years as they were so close to being totally wiped out by industrial farming. I have been lucky enough to get my hands on a whole beast from an amazing farmer, John Lean in Devon. John’s farm is truly beautiful, on our visit we drove down a drive so long and steep we worried we wouldn’t make it back out. Catching glimpses of white in the fields we arrived at a setting that made us wish we hadn’t been able to make it back out. The farm sits in a deep valley surrounded with forest protecting the “closed” herd. Steers Winter in the Pine forest, whilst cows and calves Winter in an open barn close to the farm house.
John kindly leant us some wellies
John has been farming White Park for 15 years now and has a totally closed herd with all the animals born on his land coming from his pedigree registered live stock. Each year when the new calves are born they name each and every animal with that years letter of the alphabet, this year all the new borns names start with N (yes I did ask for a Nathan). We will be serving Kestrel, a steer born September 12th 2008, living a happy life grazing with his family before heading a short distance to the slaughterhouse on 4th November 2011 at 37 months of age (twice as long as your commercial supermarket beast)to then be dry aged 29 days ready for you to enjoy.
White Park raised slowly and pasture fed makes a rich and tasty meat with a beautiful light marbling. Having a whole beast, “Kestrel” come into The Butchery Ltd from the Bickleigh herd is a rare treat that I am really looking forward to sharing with you on Saturday.